Stockholm Makerspace Wiki - Användarbidrag [sv]

Resin Printing

2026-05-03T11:29:02Z

Alex:

The resin printer requires an in-person course.

==⚠️ RESIN PRINTER SAFETY & MAINTENANCE ⚠️==

*Resin is mildly toxic and an allergen.
*Use glasses, <u>nitril</u> gloves and only touch things inside the cabinet as soon as you have started working.
*Wash your hands after you have removed the gloves with soap and water, (never use IPA or acetone to wash your skin since it does remove most of the resin, but it helps the rest of it penetrating deeper).
*Lift bottles and equipment with both hands.
The cabinet must be kept clean for everyone's safety. Please follow these guidelines strictly.

🛠 THE TOOLS: DO NOT CURE THEM

Everything that '''STAYS''' in the cabinet (tools) '''DOES NOT''' NEED CURING.

* Tools must be THOROUGHLY RINSED and WIPED until there is NO RESIN LEFT on them before they are placed back in the toolbox. So, it's important that you '''NEVER CURE THE TOOL'''.

If you cure them, they are ruined.

RINSE and WIPE: After using any tools (filter, funnel, tweezers, Allen keys, scraper, tank cleaning tool, etc.), rinse them in the cleaning solution until resin-free.

Wipe tools with paper until DRY and return them to the toolbox. The toolbox should remain clean and dry at all times.

==🗑 WASTE DISPOSAL==

Everything that '''COMES OUT''' of the cabinet needs to be '''CURED''' and '''DISPOSED OF'''.

This includes paper towels, gloves, and rinsing water.

Do not leave anything behind. Ensure you have cured absolutely everything that contacted the resin.

Rinsing Water: Once you finish rinsing your print and curing the water, the container must be emptied in the wet room's sink.

===PROTECT THE EQUIPMENT===

Use the '''SPLASH GUARD''' every single time you move resin in or out of the printer! This is the only way to prevent resin from leaking into the machine's internal electronics.

PREVENT DISPLAY DAMAGE: * Before starting, check that no failed prints are stuck in the tank.

Perform a Tank Cleaning cycle after every print.

===TANK MAINTENANCE===

NEVER use IPA on the tank’s film (FEP): It will get cloudy and require constant replacement.

Emptying the tank: Use the filter and funnel to transfer resin back to the bottle. (Rinse and dry the filter/funnel immediately after).

Cleaning the film: Wipe it VERY gently with clean paper to remove bulk resin. Wash it gently with your fingers and detergent in the wet room.

Cleanliness: Be careful not to leave resin residue on taps or door handles.

Dryness: Ensure the tank is 100% dry before pouring resin back in.

🧼 CLEANLINESS & REPORTING
Wipe any surfaces that have resin drops or residue with IPA and cure the used paper.

If something breaks, report it ASAP. We can only fix what we know about.

Contact Alex Lopez via Slack if you break something or if you have any doubts about the process.

These precautions ensure the safety of our members and the longevity of our equipment. Thank you for your attention and for being a responsible member of the makerspace!

===What is SLA-printing===

===Slicing your files===
Slicers and slicer settings.

Prusa slicer. Always tilt your model 45 degrees to avoid suction and improve quality

=====Support:=====
If your prints fail, perform a calibration.

=====Model management=====

*Slicer works "upside down"
*Avoid horizontal faces at all costs,
*Avoid horizontal edges if possible
*Hollowing: Reduces resin-use, makes curing quicker and reduces the number of supports needed.
*Add a drain-hole near the bottom of the model to avoid getting resin trapped inside.
*Under exposure: Print fails or loss of small details
*Over exposure: print gets to thick, loss of small details
*Common errors: To few supports, miscalibration, resin mixed with IPA.

===Preparing the machine===

*Always wear gloves.
*Insert USB-stick before handling any resin
*The machine has one main power switch in the back and an on button on the front.
*Put the '''splash guard'''.
*Run the scraper gently along the bottom and check for resistance.
**If there is resistances, perform a "tank cleaning".
*Give the resin a stir for one minute.
*Remove splash guard.
*Start your file and wait for the machine to tell you what level resin is required and add the resin.
*If you added too much, place the splash guard again, remove some resin with the syringe and empty the excess back in the bottle. Rinse the syringe a couple of times in the rinsing solution, dry it thoroughly with paper, once clean and completely dry and without any drips, place it back in the tool box. '''Do not cure the syringe'''. Cure the paper you used and dispose of it (you can do this in one of the curing stations or in the curing box in the drawer along the rest of the paper you use).
*Remove splash guard once more and let the machine start.

===Finishing the printed object===

*Take your USB-stick before handling any resin.
*Insert the splash guard.
*Let the resin drip from your model for a while back into the vat, if there is still resin inside the model pour it back in the vat.
*Run the tank cleaning program.
*Put the model and the cleaning film in the washing vat and run the cycle 2 times.
**The rinsing solution can be reused many times. Just make sure you can
**Unless it starts to feel goopy it is probably fine, as a rule of thumb, don't replace it.
*Let the model sit for a few minutes on a paper-towel before moving it into the UV-chamber
*Let it sit in the UV-box for about 20 minutes

===Cleaning the printer===

*Wipe the printer and the work-surfaces with IPA and paper, cure the paper and discard.
*Perform a bottom cleaning program after you finish your print.

===The things i filmed===
Here is an album with the various things I filmed.. It needs to be cut and made into proper instructional videos.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xnDX69vvJ3vtqjoa7

XTool F2 Ultra laser

2026-02-27T09:45:14Z

Alex: Update but still working on it

{|
|- style="color: black; background: #ffc9c9; border: 1px solid #d42b2b; padding: 10px; display: block;"
|TEMPORARY: Only the Redsail <u>'''OR'''</u> the xTool lasers can be used at a time, NOT both. This is a ventilation issue and work is being done to remedy the situation. If the red light is blinking on the Redsail, turn off the xTool power strip, if they are not being used. (updated 2026-01-07)
|}
{|
|- style="color: black; background: #ffc9c9; border: 1px solid #d42b2b; padding: 10px; display: block;"
|IMPORTANT: Please ensure you close the cover when you are done using the laser. The laser lens is very large and collects dust easily.
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|There will be an online course for this machine at some point.
|}
[[Fil:Class 4 laser.png|miniatyr]]
[https://support.xtool.com/article/1961 F2 Ultra info and user guide]

Quick start:

Power on Redsail laser (this turns on main ventilation), power on xTool power strip (on wall behind xTool lasers; this turns on the xTool ventilation).

Ensure the F2 Ultra is powered on by checking the lighted power button on the right side of the machine, or looking at the remote display laying to the right side of the machine.

Open [https://www.xtool.com/pages/software xTool Studio] (installed on the design workstation PC, though you are welcome to install it on your personal computer / laptop).

You can start a new project, open an existing one, or "explore" the xTool marketplace (there are LOTS of nice, free designs to use) - on the network drive, there is a folder for laser designs, available for anyone to use; Please feel free to add your designs to the folder, with a descriptive name. xToll studio project file extension is '''.xcs'''

xTool Creative Space (XCS) supports the following file formats for import:

* SVG
* DXF
* PNG
* JPG/JPEG
* BMP

If you have an xTool account, sign in / out at the top right of the window (looks like a robot). If you are signing up for a new account, you automatically get 200 "credits" that can be spent on designs, "AI" usage, etc. Each point seems to have a value of 1 US cent.

For each new account signed into xTool studio, it will make you watch a ~2 minute laser safety video.

Please use the ribbed square plate to place material on, especially when you are learning this machine.

'''ALWAYS CLOSE THE SAFETY COVER!'''

DO NOT RUN IT WITH THE COVER OPEN! While it is useful when using larger material, it is an extreme safety issue, until we come up with a safe setup for handling bigger materials, please do not attempt to use it open.

The software is very user friendly, and will help you get started quickly.

Color Engraving

= Stainless Steel Engraving =
The color engraving technology enables multi-color effects on specific materials. To achieve these effects, just like the image shown below, you can work with xTool F2 Ultra, which supports color engraving of vector fill images and bitmap objects.

== Color formation mechanism on stainless steel ==

* Oxide coloration Under laser irradiation, stainless steel's metallic elements produce colored oxidation products.
* Transparent oxide film (thin-film interference) A transparent oxide layer forms, creating color through light interference effects.

== Key findings & recommendations ==
Minor variations in power, focus, or energy '''can significantly alter the engraved color.''' For consistent results, calibrate personalized color-engraving parameter settings based on the machine’s performance and material used.

= Before color engraving =
Color engraving results can be affected by multiple factors including laser energy, material type, ambient humidity, and temperature fluctuation.

In this case, you're advised to first test your material with a parameter array to identify desired colors, then record and save the corresponding settings for consistent, high-quality output.

= Color engraving steps =

# Click Unknown material in the upper right corner and select the target setting.
# Import or create a vector fill image or bitmap object.
# Click the object. If the object is an image, click Color Separation in the upper bar.
# Click an object part, choose C-engrave in the right panel, and configure processing settings.
# Click Preview processing results of the reference setting under One-click set.
# Repeat the previous step until all parts of the object have been set properly.
# Start processing your material.

Note:

- If you want to engrave a bitmap image on the material, please ensure that the image meets the following requirements:

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Solid color blocks

<nowiki>*</nowiki> No gradients, transitional colors, or small color pixels

- Tiny color blocks (with few pixels) can be deleted—they won't noticeably affect the final piece.

= Brass Color Engraving =
Just like with the previous two metals, color engraving on brass also relies on using a test matrix to determine the best parameters. You can refer to the following settings and steps to create a test array:

'''Power 30–75%, Speed 100–1000 mm/s, Lines per cm 5000, Pulse Width 2 ns, Frequency 1950 kHz'''

= The Holographic Effects =
Once you’ve mastered color engraving, an even more advanced technique is using the laser to reshape the surface of the material to control how light is reflected, diffracted, and absorbed—creating stunning holographic effects.

This effect is achieved by engraving extremely fine lines on the metal surface, hundreds of times thinner than a strand of hair. These microscopic lines act like a tiny diffraction grating. When light hits the surface, it is diffracted and interferes, splitting white light into its spectrum of colors—much like a prism. As the viewing angle changes, different wavelengths of light reach the eye, producing a dazzling, multicolored shimmer that shifts with perspective.

You need to use '''304 mirror-finish stainless steel''' for this project. Only a highly reflective surface can effectively reflect the diffracted light and create a clear holographic effect, while brushed or matte finishes make this difficult to achieve.

This file requires '''engraving mode'''. Be sure to tap '''Auto Focus''' first, then manually add 1 mm to the focus distance. This process is called defocusing, and it’s essential for achieving the holographic engraving effect. '''We recommend a defocus of 1–2 mm''', though the exact value may vary depending on your machine, so test multiple times to find the best setting for your setup.

Most importantly, remember to set the fill angle before processing. We used 45° to achieve this effect.

Laser Type: MOPA

Power: 12%

Speed: 240mm/s

Passes: 2

Lines per cm: 220

Pulse: 60ns

Frequency: 115 kHz

Engraving angle: 75

Incremental mode.

= Glass Engraving =
Glass Paint the surface with black tempera. make sure hat the surface is completely covered and that no light can be seen through.

Select the material in Xtool Studio and test this settings

Power: 30%

Speed: 190mm/s

Lines per cm: 160

Passes: 1 or 2

For black engraving: Instead of black tempera use Titanium Dioxide

= Embossing Metal =
Mode: Embossing

Layers: 256

Power: 100%

Speed: 1500mm/s

Passes: 1

Lines: 300

Angle: 137

Pulse Width: 500ns

Frequency: 60kHz

Descend at the z-axis:

for every N layers: 10

by Nmm: 0.03

Embossing Wood