Ultimaker 2

3D-printer Ultimaker 2 +

Snabbfakta Ultimaker 2

Antal: 6 st

Användning: Fri användning

Modell: Ultimaker 2

Arbetsvolym: 223 x 223 x 205mm

Primärt material PLA

Filamentdiameter: 2,85mm

Munstycke: 0,25mm -> 0,8mm

Utskriftsyta: Uppvärmd flexibel PEI-platta

Bokning: Först till kvarn

Material

TL;DR: If you are new to 3D-printing and want to know what type of filament you should purchase, buy a roll of 2,85mm PLA in the Makerspace shop, or see the list of sellers here.

The filament used in the printer MUST BE 2,85mm filament. If you try to use 1.75mm filament it can back up and create a plug that affects the print and can damage the printer.

Material that is marked with "OK" can be used if you understand how to use it with the printer and you make sure that the printer is cleaned out and can print PLA after you are done.

Wood-filled material works well with 3D-printing, but it's a bit sensitive to heat and sitting in the nozzle too long can burn the wood which can get stuck in the nozzle. It is very hard to remove once this happens and essentially makes the nozzle unfunctional, so please be cautious.

Material	Producer	Approved	Printing Temp	Bed temp	Comments
PLA	Generic	YES	210C	60C
PETG	Generic	YES	240C	80C
PLA/PHA	Colorfabb	YES	210C	60C	Slightly more flexible and soft than pure PLA
XT	Colorfabb	YES	245C	70C	More impact-resistant than PLA
nGen	Colorfabb	YES	230C	90C	If you have read that ABS is what's needed for your print, this is a good alternative that may be used.
CPE	Ultimaker	YES	245C	70C	It would be appreciated if the extra PTFE isolator that comes with CPE can be donated to the space :-)
PLA glitter fill	Colorfabb	YES	210C	60C
Bridge Nylon	Taulman	OK	250C	80C	Very hygroscopic, must be completely dry before use!
Bronzefill	Colorfabb	OK	210C	60C
Copperfill	Colorfabb	OK	210C	60C
Brassfill	Colorfabb	OK	210C	60C
Woodfill Fine	Colorfabb	Not Recommended	210C	60C	Must not sit in a warmed up nozzle as it will burn and get stuck. Best with 0.2mm or thicker filament. 0.6mm nozzle recommended.
Corkfill	Colorfabb	Not Recommended	210C	60C	Must not sit in a warmed up nozzle as it will burn and get stuck. 0.6mm nozzle recommended.
Bamboofill	Colorfabb	Not Recommended	210C	60C	Must not sit in a warmed up nozzle as it will burn and get stuck. 0.6mm nozzle recommended.
Laywoo-D3	Kai Parthy	Not Recommended			Must not sit in a warmed up nozzle as it will burn and get stuck. 0.6mm nozzle REQUIRED.
ABS	Generic	Not Recommended	250C	105C	Smells really bad and therefore we request you use this only with the two printers that are enclosed.
Glowfill	Colorfabb	NO	210C	60C	Wears down the nozzles (see: XT-CF20 below)
XT-CF20	Colorfabb	NO	255C	70C	Wears down the nozzles
Ninjaflex	Fenner Drives	NO	235C	45C	Gets tangled in the feeder and emits toxic gas when overheated

If you print with anything other than PLA then before you leave, make sure you switch back to PLA and run at least 20-30 cm at 250° so you can be absolutely certain that nothing else remains in the nozzle.

If you have some other material you wish to use that is not listed, ask Erik C. (#1005; @Cederb on slack) about its use.

Software

The most common slicer that is used is Cura.

Operation

Load/ChangeMaterial

Manual

Load/Change Material

Ultimaker Support - Changing Filament

Offload Material

Follow the guide to load material, but then press "Cancel" when it says "Remove Material."

Swap the nozzle

Ultimaker Support - Swapping Nozzles

Cleaning (Atomic Method)

3DVerkstan Support - The Atomic Method / Cold Pull

Maintenance

Follow the recommendations at https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667410778200. These recommendations apply when the printers are used an average 1500 hours of use per year or more (we used the machines for about 1800 hours per year). Make sure to keep to the recommended intervals for each point as well.

Only do this when you understand fully what must be done and how to do it. If something is unclear, please ask for help.

Please write in all maintenance performed in the maintenance log

Frequently (as much as you wish)

Atomic Method / Cold Pull

3DVerkstan Support - The Atomic Method / Cold Pull

Lubricate the guide rods

Use sewing machine oil (found in the sewing room).

First wipe away all dirt and clutter. Drop one drop of oil onto a sheet and then use this to get the rest of any dirt or old oil off of the rods.

Place the printer head in the middle of the printer (when seen from above) using your hand to move it. Drop a small drop on every side near the the printer head. Then move the printer head a few times along the X and Y rods so that each rod is fully oiled. The place the printer head in the middle again. Then protect the toothed belts from any potential spills, and apply a small drop to each side of the four belt tensioners (the black plastic boxes). Move the print head around the X and Y rods again.

For the Z-axis follow the advice from Ultimaker. Important! Only use a tiny drop of oil and only if that rod is dry. There is no where for excess oil to run off or collect thus excess oil can cause issues.

See also: lubricate-the-axles

Clean the build plate

Our 3D-printers no longer have a glass bed, but rather a flexible build plate. Take care not to damage the bed by e.g. scraping them with sharp knives.

• Cleaning the flexible build plate (TL;DR: let it cool, use isopropanol och microfiber cloth)
• Cleaning the 3D-printer build plate (svenska)

Monthly

Cleaning the printer

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/18778-clean-the-printer The Z-axis switch mentioned can be found with the help of this image: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19488-z-switch-broken-or-z-switch-stuck

Check the electrical connections in the printer

The electrical connections have a limited lifespan and take a bit of beating when the printer moves about. The connections should not be looseDessa kontakter har en begränsad livslängd och får en del belastning när skrivaren svängs runt. The case should not be loose, and the connectors and its pins must be shiny. There should be no cracks. A bag with spare parts for the connectors is hanging on the wall behind the 3D-printers.

Check that there is no visible damage

Check the cable cover, visible cables, build plate, feeder, belt, etc. Repair or order spare parts and replace the damaged component.

Level the bed

Start the guide with Maintenance -> Buildplate. The printer will expect that the plate is 0,1mm from the nozzle when the guide is complete. Use regular 80gr paper as a shim to check the distance between the nozzle and plate. You should feel that the paper has some resistance but you should still be able to freely move the paper under the nozzle (it should feel like you are scraping the paper slightly).

Quarterly

Check the play on the axles

check-for-play-on-axles

Check the tension on the vertical toothed belts.

Check the belts on the step motors for the X and Y axes. These are the belts on the stepper motors for the X and Y axes. They are located furthest inside the machine, high up.

check-tension-of-short-belts

Make sure the z-axis rod is lubricated

lubricate-the-lead-screw-of-the-z-motor

Tighten the hotend isolator.

retighten-the-hot-end-isolator

Yearly

Clean out the feeder and change the Bowden tube.

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/50805-clean-the-feeder-and-replace-the-bowden-tube

https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667417948855

Spare parts

If spare parts are needed, talk with Erik C (#1005; @Cederb on Slack) or the board

Tips for 3D-Printing

Tips for 3D-Printing (svenska)

Troubleshooting

Guides

Ultimaker visual troubleshooting guide

Nametags

We use a system where you set a nametag on the printer when you use it.

You can print out your own nametag using the nametag file on one of the 3D-printers. Print out a label via the Memberbooth in the hallway and stick it onto the nametag.

Filament-refill

one half of a printable refill spool core

In the webshop and other areas there is the possibility to purchase just the filament (no roll). To use such stock you can print your own spool core. You will need to assemble both halves with some cardboard siding.

Ownership

Stockholm Makerspace.