Wood room intro and table saw safety

Complete walk-through of the wood-room intro, and table saw safety course.

Work-bench area

• The workbenches are on wheels so they can be moved around.
• The corner is for 48h storage for drying glue.
  • Mark items you put there with a temporary-storage sticker.
  • The table can be folded down for larger items.
  • Items older than 48h can be moved out of the way.
• In the roof there is an air-dust filter. The remote is by the door. Start it with a timer so it shuts off automatically.
• The Lathe is in this work area, if someone is using it, make sure not to bump into them.
• None of the tools should ever leave the wood-room.

Dust collection

• The dust collector turns on automatically whenever a valve is opened.
• Has a box on the floor by the lathe to sweep floor-dust into.
• If you are the last person to leave the room, you must check that the dust collector is off. Running it all night is a fire hazard.
• Before you start and when you are done, do the following:
  • Pull the handle on the side to clear the filter
  • Check that the dust is not above the middle of the window. If it is, empty and replace the bag.
  • New bags can be found near the mitre saw.

Storage

• There is temporary (2 months) storage along the walls.
• Usable pieces can be placed near the mitre saw for others to use.
• The planar has a protective cover so you can put items on it while working.
  • No gluing or working on any of the machine surfaces.
• Everything on the floor, not counting the glue-dry area, is free-use.
• Remember that we have a storage room.

Table saw

Do-nots

• Do not use any blade other than those provided by the Makerspace. The saw uses custom blades because it has a motor break.
• Do not stand right in front of the blade. Hold the wood on one side of the blade and stand on that side. The other side can come flying back.
• Never, ever, remove the riving knife behind the blade. It is the most important safety feature. There are ways to use a table saw without such a blade. If you want to do that, get your own table saw.
• Do not remove the conventional fence. It can be pushed far enough to the side for any normal use.
• Do not back out of a cut half-way. Either finish the cut, or hold still and turn off the machine.
• Do not adjust or disassemble the cross-cut fence. We have ordered parts to build an adjustable cross-cut fence.
• Do not hold a piece of wood with just your hands to cut it. Use the fences to slide it.

Basic operation

• There exists a loose handle that is used to adjust the blade in/down and angle it.
• For the angle, there is a fastening screw.
  • Only really needed at around 22 degrees angle.
  • There is a stop that is close enough to 90 degrees.
• The on/off switch is a bit hard to see and reach. Learn where the off-switch is before starting to use the machine.
• Turn the chip evacuator on before starting the machine.
• Make sure the blade is raised about 10mm above the top of your work surface.
• When you stop the machine, you will hear a buzzing of the break for a few seconds after the blade has stopped. This is normal.

Cutting pieces that are longer than they are wide

• Use the traditional fence
• Make sure the traditional fence is moved back so it covers the entire blade and a bit more.
• For wide pieces (20+cm)
  • Stand between the blade and the fence.
  • Hold the wood with your hands between the blade and the fence and push it until the piece is completely cut through.
• For thinner cuts
  • Get two push-sticks.
  • Place one on the table and use the other to push the piece of wood down and towards the fence.
  • Use the other hand to push the wood forward until the wood is completely on the table.
  • Use the second push-stick to push the wood to finish the cut.
  • Let everyone try this.
• The traditional fence can be flipped on its side to become very low for work on pieces that are very low and thin.

Cutting pieces that are wider than they are long

• Use the sliding table and the cross-fence
• Attach the 90 degree fence to the sliding table.
• It can be extended, and also has a stop to make pieces of the same length
• If using the traditional fence as a stop, pull it back so it does not cover the blade. If it covers the blade, pieces can fly.
• Unlock the moving table via the handle on its side
• Stand right up against the moving table. To the side of the blade, you are safe.
• Pull the table back and place your piece. Hold it agains the fence and make the cut.
• When using the movable table, walk with it, do not stand still and lean forward.
• Let everyone try this
• You can also attach an uneven piece of wood length-wise on the moving table to give it a first clean cut. Use clamps and the t-slow to fasten the piece.

Replacing the blade (Not part of the basic walk-through)

• Pull the sliding table all the way back
• Move the knob on the far side of the machine all the way down. This stops the machine from starting.
• Slide the black protective metal plate out and put it to the side.
• Unscrew the blade with an allen-wrench and a hex wrench
• Replace the blade and screw it back
• Slide the black black protective metal plate back in place.
  • It has slots on either side it slides in.
  • To get it in all the way, it needs to be lifted a bit.
• Move the know back to the middle position (The machine will not start if it is in the top or bottom positions)
• Pull the sliding table back to its default position.