Versionen från 1 november 2024 kl. 22.00

Table saw

Welcome to the table saw instruction video.

We will first go through the basics of the table saw. We will then demonstrate five different basic cuts.

Basic operation

The first step for every cut is to adjust the blade height.
Use the handle on the front of the machine to adjust raise the blade. The top of the blade should be raised about 10mm above the top of the piece you are cutting.
In order to cut at an angle, move the removable handle to the side of the machine and turn it to angle the blade.
- There is a fastening screw to fix the angle, but it is really only needed at around 22 degrees where the blade is a bit wobbly.
- To reset the blade to 90 degrees, simply turn the blade back to until you hit the stop which is close enough to 90 degrees.
Always turn on the chip evacuator on before starting the machine.
The on/off switch is a bit hard to see and reach and there is a sharp edge above it. Learn where it is before starting to use the machine.
When you stop the machine, you will hear a buzzing of the break for a few seconds after the blade has stopped. This is normal.
Do not use any blade other than those provided by the Makerspace. The saw uses custom blades because it has a motor break.
Never, ever, remove the riving knife behind the blade. It is the most important safety feature. There are table saw techniques that require your to remove the riving knife. If you want to use those techniques, get your own table saw.
We will now demonstrate five basic cuts. The instructions focus on helping you avoid the following very real dangers
- Getting your hands caught in the blade
- The blade grabbing the piece you are cutting and throwing it at you with great force

Cutting pieces that are longer than they are wide

For cutting pieces that are long, use the traditional fence.

For pieces > 20 cm wide

Stand on the side of the blade where the widest part of the wood will be after the cut. Keep both hands and your body on the same side of the blade. The wood on the other side of the blade may fly back and you want it to miss you if it happens.
Hold the wood with your hands and push it until the piece is completely cut through.
Do not remove the conventional fence from the machine completely. It can be pushed far enough to the side for any normal use.

For thinner cuts

Get two push-sticks.
Place one on the table and use the other to push the piece of wood down and towards the fence.
Use the other hand to push the wood forward until the wood is completely on the table.
Use the second push-stick to push the wood to finish the cut.
Do not back out of a cut half-way. Either finish the cut, or hold still and turn off the machine.

For really thin pieces

The traditional fence can be flipped on its side to become very low for work on pieces that are very low and thin.

Cutting pieces that are wider than they are long

In most cases, the mitre saw is better and safer for cuts like this.
Use the sliding table and the 90-degree cross-fence
First, place the metal fastening piece in place in the T-slot. Then place the cross-fence and screw it tight to the metal fastening piece.
The cross-fence has a stop to make pieces of the same length. It can also be extended.
Unlock the moving table by turning the knob underneath it 90 degrees until it does not snap back. To lock the table again, turn the knob back until it snaps back all the way in.
Pull the table back and place your piece.
Stand right up against the moving table and push the piece down against the table with your hands. As long as your hands are about 10cm from the blade, you are safe. If you hold further away you will not be strong enough to keep the piece down and the piece can come flying.
When using the movable table, walk with it, do not stand still and lean forward.
Always use a fence of some kind. Do not hold a piece of wood with just your hands to cut it. Your hands will wobble and the blade will pinch your piece and it will come flying.

Using the traditional fence as a length guide

If using the traditional fence as a stop, pull it back so it does not cover the blade. If it covers the blade, pieces can jam and come flying.
Now you can cut multiple pieces of the same length. The mitre saw can also do this and is normally a better and safer option.

Thank you for watching.

@@ Rad 1: / Rad 1: @@
 = Table saw =
+Welcome to the table saw instruction video.
-== Do-nots ==
+We will first go through the basics of the table saw. We will then demonstrate five different basic cuts.
-* Do not use any blade other than those provided by the Makerspace. The saw uses custom blades because it has a motor break.
-* Do not stand right in front of the blade. Hold the wood on one side of the blade and stand on that side. The other side can come flying back.
-* Never, ever, remove the riving knife behind the blade. It is the most important safety feature. There are ways to use a table saw without such a blade. If you want to do that, get your own table saw.
-* Do not remove the conventional fence. It can be pushed far enough to the side for any normal use.
-* Do not back out of a cut half-way. Either finish the cut, or hold still and turn off the machine.
-* Do not adjust or disassemble the cross-cut fence. We have ordered parts to build an adjustable cross-cut fence.
-* Do not hold a piece of wood with just your hands to cut it. Use the fences to slide it.
 == Basic operation ==
-* There exists a loose handle that is used to adjust the blade in/down and angle it.
+* The first step for every cut is to adjust the blade height.
-* For the angle, there is a fastening screw.
+* Use the handle on the front of the machine to adjust raise the blade. The top of the blade should be raised about 10mm above the top of the piece you are cutting.
-** Only really needed at around 22 degrees angle.
+* In order to cut at an angle, move the removable handle to the side of the machine and turn it to angle the blade.
-** There is a stop that is close enough to 90 degrees.
+** There is a fastening screw to fix the angle, but it is really only needed at around 22 degrees where the blade is a bit wobbly.
-* The on/off switch is a bit hard to see and reach. Learn where the off-switch is before starting to use the machine.
+** To reset the blade to 90 degrees, simply turn the blade back to until you hit the stop which is close enough to 90 degrees.
-* Turn the chip evacuator on before starting the machine.
+* Always turn on the chip evacuator on before starting the machine.
-* Make sure the blade is raised about 10mm above the top of your work surface.
+* The on/off switch is a bit hard to see and reach and there is a sharp edge above it. Learn where it is before starting to use the machine.
 * When you stop the machine, you will hear a buzzing of the break for a few seconds after the blade has stopped. This is normal.
+* Do not use any blade other than those provided by the Makerspace. The saw uses custom blades because it has a motor break.
+* Never, ever, remove the riving knife behind the blade. It is the most important safety feature. There are table saw techniques that require your to remove the riving knife. If you want to use those techniques, get your own table saw.
+* We will now demonstrate five basic cuts. The instructions focus on helping you avoid the following very real dangers
+** Getting your hands caught in the blade
+** The blade grabbing the piece you are cutting and throwing it at you with great force
 == Cutting pieces that are longer than they are wide ==
-* Use the traditional fence
+* For cutting pieces that are long, use the traditional fence.
-* Make sure the traditional fence is moved back so it covers the entire blade and a bit more.
-* For wide pieces (20+cm)
+=== For pieces > 20 cm wide ===
-** Stand between the blade and the fence.
-** Hold the wood with your hands between the blade and the fence and push it until the piece is completely cut through.
+* Stand on the side of the blade where the widest part of the wood will be after the cut. Keep both hands and your body on the same side of the blade. The wood on the other side of the blade may fly back and you want it to miss you if it happens.
-* For thinner cuts
+* Hold the wood with your hands and push it until the piece is completely cut through.
-** Get two push-sticks.
+* Do not remove the conventional fence from the machine completely. It can be pushed far enough to the side for any normal use.
-** Place one on the table and use the other to push the piece of wood down and towards the fence.
-** Use the other hand to push the wood forward until the wood is completely on the table.
+=== For thinner cuts ===
-** Use the second push-stick to push the wood to finish the cut.
+* Get two push-sticks.
-** '''Let everyone try this.'''
+* Place one on the table and use the other to push the piece of wood down and towards the fence.
+* Use the other hand to push the wood forward until the wood is completely on the table.
+* Use the second push-stick to push the wood to finish the cut.
+* Do not back out of a cut half-way. Either finish the cut, or hold still and turn off the machine.
+=== For really thin pieces ===
 * The traditional fence can be flipped on its side to become very low for work on pieces that are very low and thin.
 == Cutting pieces that are wider than they are long ==
-* Use the sliding table and the cross-fence
+* In most cases, the mitre saw is better and safer for cuts like this.
-* Attach the 90 degree fence to the sliding table.
+* Use the sliding table and the 90-degree cross-fence
-* It can be extended, and also has a stop to make pieces of the same length
+* First, place the metal fastening piece in place in the T-slot. Then place the cross-fence and screw it tight to the metal fastening piece.
-* If using the traditional fence as a stop, pull it back so it does not cover the blade. If it covers the blade, pieces can fly.
+* The cross-fence has a stop to make pieces of the same length. It can also be extended.
-* Unlock the moving table via the handle on its side
+* Unlock the moving table by turning the knob underneath it 90 degrees until it does not snap back. To lock the table again, turn the knob back until it snaps back all the way in.
-* Stand right up against the moving table. To the side of the blade, you are safe.
+* Pull the table back and place your piece.
-* Pull the table back and place your piece. Hold it agains the fence and make the cut.
+* Stand right up against the moving table and push the piece down against the table with your hands. As long as your hands are about 10cm from the blade, you are safe. If you hold further away you will not be strong enough to keep the piece down and the piece can come flying.
 * When using the movable table, walk with it, do not stand still and lean forward.
-* '''Let everyone try this'''
+* Always use a fence of some kind. Do not hold a piece of wood with just your hands to cut it. Your hands will wobble and the blade will pinch your piece and it will come flying.
+=== Using the traditional fence as a length guide ===
+* If using the traditional fence as a stop, pull it back so it does not cover the blade. If it covers the blade, pieces can jam and come flying.
+* Now you can cut multiple pieces of the same length. The mitre saw can also do this and is normally a better and safer option.
-= Replacing the blade (Not part of the basic walk-through) =
-* Pull the sliding table all the way back
+Thank you for watching.
-* Move the knob on the far side of the machine all the way down. This stops the machine from starting.
-* Slide the black protective metal plate out and put it to the side.
-* Unscrew the blade with an allen-wrench and a hex wrench
-* Replace the blade and screw it back
-* Slide the black black protective metal plate back in place.
-** It has slots on either side it slides in.
-** To get it in all the way, it needs to be lifted a bit.
-* Move the know back to the middle position (The machine will not start if it is in the top or bottom positions)
-* Pull the sliding table back to its default position.