Anycubic Photon training: Skillnad mellan sidversioner

Ingen redigeringssammanfattning
Rad 4: Rad 4:


===Risks and security precautions===
===Risks and security precautions===
Resin is mildly toxic and an allergen.


Use glasses, gloves and only touch things inside the cabinet as soon as you have started working.
* Resin is mildly toxic and an allergen.
 
* Use glasses, <u>nitril</u> gloves and only touch things inside the cabinet as soon as you have started working.
Wash your hands after you have removed the gloves. only Use soap and water, never use IPA or acetone to wash your skin since it does remove most of the resin it helps the rest of it penetrating deeper.
* Wash your hands after you have removed the gloves. only Use soap and water, never use IPA or acetone to wash your skin since it does remove most of the resin it helps the rest of it penetrating deeper.
* Lift bottles with your hand over the label


===Slicing your files===
===Slicing your files===
Rad 17: Rad 17:
https://www.chitubox.com/
https://www.chitubox.com/


===== Support: =====
=====Support:=====
Auto support does some ground-work but needs quite some lay on hands.
Auto support does some ground-work but needs quite some lay on hands.


* Minimas
*Minimas
* local minimas,  
*local minimas,
* edges
*Alternate support along edges.
* "Enough" to resist the suck and the gravity
*"Enough" to resist the suck and the gravity


===== Model management =====
=====Model management=====


* Slicer works "upside down"
*Slicer works "upside down"
* Avoid horizontal faces at all costs,
*Avoid horizontal faces at all costs,
* Avoid horizontal edges if possible  
*Avoid horizontal edges if possible
* Try to center the model for flow-reasons  
*Try to center the model for flow-reasons
* Hollowing: Reduces resin-use, makes curing quicker and reduces the number of supports needed.
*Hollowing: Reduces resin-use, makes curing quicker and reduces the number of supports needed.
* Citubox: Hollow does an OK job but can cause un-supported artifacts
*Citubox: Hollow does an OK job but can cause un-supported artifacts
* [http://www.meshmixer.com/ MeshMixer]: and then import STL into CituBox does usually do a much cleaner job
*[http://www.meshmixer.com/ MeshMixer]: and then import STL into CituBox does usually do a much cleaner job
* Drainage: Air-holes and drain holes.
*If possible add a small air-hole at the top of the model(towards the build-plate) in order to avoid vacuum and that the model gets ripped of its support
* Under exposure: Print fails or loss of small details
*Add a drain-hole near the bottom of the model to avoid getting resin trapped inside. It is not the end of the world but increases resin use, cure time and might look bad
* Over exposure: print gets to thick, loss of small details
*Under exposure: Print fails or loss of small details
* Common errors: To few supports, missed minimas or maximas
*Over exposure: print gets to thick, loss of small details
*Common errors: To few supports, missed minimas or maximas


===Preparering the machine===
===Preparering the machine===


===== Checking and refilling the resin =====
*Put your gloves on.
 
*Insert USB-stick before handling any resin
* Give the resin a stir and check that it flows evenly.
*Give the resin a stir and check that it flows evenly.
** If it doesn't, filter it into the bottle and refill the trough
**If it doesn't, filter it into the bottle and refill the trough
* Run the _rubber_ scraper gently along the bottom and check for resitance
*Run the _rubber_ scraper gently along the bottom and check for resistance
** if there are resitances, empty the vat and use the rubberscraper to remove any stuck resin.
**if there are resistances, empty the vat and use the rubber scraper to remove any stuck resin.
* Cleaning the build plate:
*Cleaning the build plate:
** Use the metal spatula to remove any stuck resin
**Use the metal spatula to remove any stuck resin
*refill the resin upp to 1/3 of the depth of the vat


===Finishing the printed object===
===Finishing the printed object===


* Let the model it drip for a little while.
*Take your USB-stick before handling any resin
* Try to get all of the resin to drip back into the vat, if there is still resin inside the model pour it out and discard before washing.
*Let the model it drip for a little while.
* Run it in Resinaway, first prewash then final wash.
*Try to get all of the resin to drip back into the vat, if there is still resin inside the model pour it out and discard before washing.
** Resinaway is expensive but doesn't make the model as brittle as IPA, further more it isn't flammable and can be used many times
*Run it in Resinaway, first pre-wash then final wash.
** Unless it starts to feel goopy it is probably fine, as a rule of thumb, don't replace it.  
**Resinaway is expensive but doesn't make the model as brittle as IPA, further more it isn't flammable and can be used many times
* Let the model sit for a few minutes on a paper-towel before moving it into the UV-chamber
**Unless it starts to feel goopy it is probably fine, as a rule of thumb, don't replace it.
* Let it sit in the UV-box for about 20 minutes
*Let the model sit for a few minutes on a paper-towel before moving it into the UV-chamber
*Let it sit in the UV-box for about 20 minutes


===Cleaning the printer===
===Cleaning the printer===


* Wipe the printer and the work-surfaces with IPA, throw the ragg away.
*Wipe the printer and the work-surfaces with IPA, throw the ragg away.
* If something seems to have broken off the model: Filter the resin! <br />
*If something seems to have broken off the model: Filter the resin! <br />
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