166
redigeringar
Jigs for woodworking: Skillnad mellan sidversioner
ingen redigeringssammanfattning
Cloraux (diskussion | bidrag) Ingen redigeringssammanfattning |
Cloraux (diskussion | bidrag) Ingen redigeringssammanfattning |
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| Rad 11: | Rad 11: | ||
Ensure that the blade is at 90° with the table before using the sled. | Ensure that the blade is at 90° with the table before using the sled. | ||
===Angle cuts=== | ===Angle cuts=== | ||
To perform any angle cut from 89° to 45°, you need to move the sled to the left side of the blade. | To perform any angle cut from 89° to 45°, you need to move the sled to the left side of the blade. It is recommended to use a sacrificial fence to avoid tear out. | ||
=== Repetitive cuts === | |||
Woodworking projects often requires multiple identical pieces, measuring and cutting each parts separately will be inaccurate. | |||
Instead use a stop block (fixed to the fence with a clamp), or use the dedicated stop mechanism (under construction). Push each board against the block, make a pass through the wood, then set it aside and grab the next piece of stock. | |||
For some longer parts, you may use the table saw fence as a reference. Always use a piece of wood between that part that you cut and the fence. Set your part against the piece of wood on the fence, secure your part firmly, remove the small piece of wood and do the cut. Never perform a cut using a non-moving stop block, as you risk squeezing the piece and have it launched into your face. | |||
==Miter Sled Attachment== | ==Miter Sled Attachment== | ||
==Thin Strip jig== | ==Thin Strip jig== | ||