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(Skapade sidan med '= Table saw = == Do-nots == * Do not use any blade other than those provided by the Makerspace. The saw uses custom blades because it has a motor break. * Do not stand right in front of the blade. Hold the wood on one side of the blade and stand on that side. The other side can come flying back. * Never, ever, remove the riving knife behind the blade. It is the most important safety feature. There are ways to use a table saw without such a blade. If you want to do that...') |
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Rad 1: | Rad 1: | ||
= Table saw = | = Table saw = | ||
Welcome to the table saw instruction video. | |||
We will first go through the basics of the table saw. We will then demonstrate five different basic cuts. | |||
== Basic operation == | == Basic operation == | ||
* | * The first step for every cut is to adjust the blade height. | ||
* | * Use the handle on the front of the machine to adjust raise the blade. The top of the blade should be raised about 10mm above the top of the piece you are cutting. | ||
* In order to cut at an angle, move the removable handle to the side of the machine and turn it to angle the blade. | |||
** | ** There is a fastening screw to fix the angle, but it is really only needed at around 22 degrees where the blade is a bit wobbly. | ||
* The on/off switch is a bit hard to see and reach. Learn where | ** To reset the blade to 90 degrees, simply turn the blade back to until you hit the stop which is close enough to 90 degrees. | ||
* Always turn on the chip evacuator on before starting the machine. | |||
* The on/off switch is a bit hard to see and reach and there is a sharp edge above it. Learn where it is before starting to use the machine. | |||
* When you stop the machine, you will hear a buzzing of the break for a few seconds after the blade has stopped. This is normal. | * When you stop the machine, you will hear a buzzing of the break for a few seconds after the blade has stopped. This is normal. | ||
* Do not use any blade other than those provided by the Makerspace. The saw uses custom blades because it has a motor break. | |||
* Never, ever, remove the riving knife behind the blade. It is the most important safety feature. There are table saw techniques that require your to remove the riving knife. If you want to use those techniques, get your own table saw. | |||
* We will now demonstrate five basic cuts. The instructions focus on helping you avoid the following very real dangers | |||
** Getting your hands caught in the blade | |||
** The blade grabbing the piece you are cutting and throwing it at you with great force | |||
== Cutting pieces that are longer than they are wide == | == Cutting pieces that are longer than they are wide == | ||
* | * For cutting pieces that are long, use the traditional fence. | ||
=== For pieces > 20 cm wide === | |||
* Stand on the side of the blade where the widest part of the wood will be after the cut. Keep both hands and your body on the same side of the blade. The wood on the other side of the blade may fly back and you want it to miss you if it happens. | |||
* For thinner cuts | * Hold the wood with your hands and push it until the piece is completely cut through. | ||
* Do not remove the conventional fence from the machine completely. It can be pushed far enough to the side for any normal use. | |||
=== For thinner cuts === | |||
* Get two push-sticks. | |||
* | * Place one on the table and use the other to push the piece of wood down and towards the fence. | ||
* Use the other hand to push the wood forward until the wood is completely on the table. | |||
* Use the second push-stick to push the wood to finish the cut. | |||
* Do not back out of a cut half-way. Either finish the cut, or hold still and turn off the machine. | |||
=== For really thin pieces === | |||
* The traditional fence can be flipped on its side to become very low for work on pieces that are very low and thin. | * The traditional fence can be flipped on its side to become very low for work on pieces that are very low and thin. | ||
== Cutting pieces that are wider than they are long == | == Cutting pieces that are wider than they are long == | ||
* Use the sliding table and the cross-fence | * In most cases, the mitre saw is better and safer for cuts like this. | ||
* | * Use the sliding table and the 90-degree cross-fence | ||
* | * First, place the metal fastening piece in place in the T-slot. Then place the cross-fence and screw it tight to the metal fastening piece. | ||
* | * The cross-fence has a stop to make pieces of the same length. It can also be extended. | ||
* | * Unlock the moving table by turning the knob underneath it 90 degrees until it does not snap back. To lock the table again, turn the knob back until it snaps back all the way in. | ||
* Stand right up against the moving table. | * Pull the table back and place your piece. | ||
* Stand right up against the moving table and push the piece down against the table with your hands. As long as your hands are about 10cm from the blade, you are safe. If you hold further away you will not be strong enough to keep the piece down and the piece can come flying. | |||
* When using the movable table, walk with it, do not stand still and lean forward. | * When using the movable table, walk with it, do not stand still and lean forward. | ||
* | * Always use a fence of some kind. Do not hold a piece of wood with just your hands to cut it. Your hands will wobble and the blade will pinch your piece and it will come flying. | ||
=== Using the traditional fence as a length guide === | |||
* If using the traditional fence as a stop, pull it back so it does not cover the blade. If it covers the blade, pieces can jam and come flying. | |||
* Now you can cut multiple pieces of the same length. The mitre saw can also do this and is normally a better and safer option. | |||
Thank you for watching. | |||
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