Plunge saw / track saw — Makita SP6000

Do not use — depth stop is being repaired. The depth limiter doesn't hold; replacement parts were ordered 12 October 2026.

Corded plunge saw on guide rails (sänksåg) for straight rip cuts, crosscuts and bevels in large sheets and heavy panels, with the work staying still.

Makita SP6000 plunge saw

Makita SP6000 plunge saw




Location

Wood room; two guide rails on the wall

Status

Out of use — depth stop repair

Access

Wood room course

Max depth

56 mm at 90°, 40 mm at 45° (less on the rail)

Blade

Ø165 mm, 20 mm bore, rated ≥ 5,200 rpm

Help / faults

Slack #trärummet-woodroom

Materials

  • Yes: clean wood, plywood, MDF and similar boards.

  • No: pressure-treated wood, metal, stone, plaster.

  • Fine-cut blade for plywood and sheet goods; rip blade for thick solid timber.

Controls

Control

Function

Lock-off button + trigger

Start (press lock-off, then pull trigger)

Depth stop + clamp screw

Sets plunge depth

Quick-stop button (by rear handle)

2–3 mm scoring depth on the rail. Pull out for normal depth.

Front and rear bevel clamps

Lock the bevel angle

Bevel stop levers

Stops at 22.5° and 45°; extra range −1° to 48°

Speed dial 1–6

2,000–5,200 rpm

Two rail-fit adjusters

Remove side play on the rail

Anti-tip lever

Locks into the rail groove for bevel cuts

Safety

  • Eye and hearing protection, dust mask for dusty work. No gloves.

  • Unplug before any setup, adjustment or blade change.

  • The guard must spring back and cover the blade. Never wedge it open.

  • No riving knife — support the work so the kerf can't close on the blade.

  • Both hands on the saw. Stand to the side of the blade line.

  • Never pull a running saw backwards or lift it out of the cut.

Setup

  1. Support the sheet on a stable platform with sacrificial supports on both sides of the cut and near the edges, so neither piece sags. Never cut into a workbench or the floor.

  2. Depth: set so no more than one tooth projects below the work. Add the rail's height. Test on scrap.

  3. Rail: put the rail on the piece you keep, rubber edge on the cut line. Leave rail before and after the cut. Clamp it.

  4. Rail fit: adjust both adjusters so there's no side play but the saw slides freely. Recheck when changing rails.

  5. Joining rails: use the connectors and align with a straightedge. If the joint isn't straight and stable, use a different setup.

  6. Extraction: connect the hose; make sure hose and cable can't snag at the rail end.

  7. Dry run the full cut with the saw unplugged.

How to use

  1. Place the saw at the start of the rail, blade retracted. Hold both handles.

  2. Press lock-off, pull trigger, wait for full speed.

  3. Plunge to the depth stop and push forward steadily.

  4. At the end, release the trigger and hold still until the blade stops. Let the guard close before lifting.

If it binds, wanders or the rail moves: release the trigger, hold still until it stops, then fix the cause.

Scoring (clean top edge): push in the quick-stop button, make a forward 2–3 mm pass, return to start, pull the button out, make the full cut. Keep the rail in place for both passes.

Bevel cuts: set the angle with both clamps, engage the anti-tip lever in the rail groove, check clearance and test on scrap.

Plunge cuts / cut-outs: get instruction first. Clamp a stop behind the saw base (to the rail if used). The B marks on the guard show the cut start/end at max depth on the rail only. The blade cuts further underneath than on top — finish corners by another method.

Changing the blade

  1. Unplug.

  2. Press lock-off, turn the blade-change lever and lower the head until it locks.

  3. Hold the shaft lock and loosen the bolt counter-clockwise with the onboard hex key. Remove bolt, outer flange and blade.

  4. Clean, fit the new blade with teeth pointing up at the front (match the arrow).

  5. Refit flange and tighten the bolt clockwise.

  6. Release the locks, check the guard, and test-cut on scrap to check the rubber-strip reference.

Troubleshooting

Problem

Action

Depth stop slips

Stop using the saw and report.

Saw rattles sideways on the rail

Adjust both rail-fit adjusters. Worn guide holders need replacing.

Saw binds on rail or joint

Unplug; check fit, rail damage and joint alignment.

Cut wanders / strip no longer matches

Check blade, rail fit, clamping and strip.

Burning or motor labours

Check blade, support, feed and speed.

Guard doesn't close, vibration, electrical fault

Stop, mark as faulty, report.

Maintenance

  • After use: unplug, brush/vacuum dust from guard, vents and rail grooves. Protect the rubber edges in storage.

  • The rubber strip is trimmed by the saw itself to match the blade — ask before replacing or trimming one.

  • Guide holders replaced and new rubber edges fitted 28 September 2026.

  • Maintenance and repairs log

Specifications



Model

Makita SP6000

Supply / power

220–240 V, 50 Hz, 1,300 W

Speed

2,000–5,200 rpm (dial 1–6)

Blade

Ø165 × 20 mm

Max depth

56 mm at 90°, 40 mm at 45°, 38 mm at 48°

Bevel

−1° to 48°

Weight

4.1 kg

Speed dial

1

2

3

4

5

6

rpm

2,000

2,200

3,100

4,000

4,900

5,200

SP6000 nameplate

SP6000 nameplate


The two guide rails on the wall

The two guide rails on the wall


Documents and links