Trärummet: Skillnad mellan sidversioner
Voxel (diskussion | bidrag) Ingen redigeringssammanfattning |
Voxel (diskussion | bidrag) Ingen redigeringssammanfattning |
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Rad 60: | Rad 60: | ||
*Jointer | *Jointer | ||
**new motor. | **new motor. | ||
[[Kategori:Trärummet]] |
Versionen från 11 oktober 2024 kl. 12.42
You must complete the online course before using the wood workshop |
Introduction video
Trärummet rules and recommendations
Rules
- Keep the door close at any time. Wood dust can damage the machines in the metalrummet.
- It is forbidden to work with pressure treated wood in the room for health reasons.
- You are only allowed to work with woods and some plastics in Trärummet. Metal, stone, bricks and anything else is forbidden to work with in the room.
- Always use some form of dust collection when working with the machines (not mandatory for the drill press and only when your are sanding a piece on the lathe).
- Always clean up (benches and floor) as soon as you are done and before you leave. This is a general rule for the makerspace, not just this room.
Recommendations
- Attend a wood workshop intro before using machines that you are unfamiliar with.
- Use eye protection and where applicable ear muffs when using machines.
- Keep long hair, loose clothing and any kind of straps, cords, jewelry etc. tucked away when using machines. If the catch in a spinning machine it can end really badly.
- Do not use gloves with the machines, if they get caught it will end badly before you can react.
Which saw is which?
The wood room has a selection of motorised saws. Knowing which one to use is not easy in the beginning. Here is a summary of the motorised saws we have and what they are good for:
- The miter saw (gersåg/kapsåg) is perfect for straight cuts up to about 30cm in length and 5cm thickness at repeatable horizontal angles between ±45°. That's the one that sits in a wooden cupboard and slides out. Longer cuts are possible but you need to use an end stop and flip your work piece upside down to cut from both sides.
- The table saw (bordssåg) is perfect for straight cuts up to about a meter in length and 5cm thickness at repeated vertical angles between 45-90°. That's the one that looks like a table in the middle of the floor. It has a risk of violently throwing your work piece towards you if used incorrectly, so please either clamp your work to a sled or look up "how to avoid kickback on a table saw" online before using it.
- The band saw (bandsåg) is perfect for curved cuts with a curve radius larger than about 5cm in work pieces smaller than roughly 0.5m². That's the machine with a thin vertical metal strip with saw teeth. Please note that the blade moves downwards at high speed and with significant force so it'll try to pull anything you feed into it down towards the table which can be incredibly dangerous if you try hand holding anything when remotely round or otherwise elevated over the table at the point of contact with the blade. The band saw can also split things vertically without removing much material, called "resaw", but a wider blade should be fitted and all guides adjusted before doing that.
- The track saw (sänksåg) is a hand-held saw with a circular spinning blade. It looks very much like a circular saw (cirkelsåg) but has additional mechanics for allowing it to be lowered into wood in a controlled fashion. It is perfect for long straight cuts up to 5cm deep, especially for heavy pieces of wood that are hard to move around such as oak bench tops and whole sheets of plywood. To make cuts perfectly straight, a guide that looks like a huge metal ruler can be clamped to your work piece first. We have two of these guided and they can be pierced together for really long cuts.
- The jigsaw is a hand held machine with a short and narrow reciprocating (moving back and forth, in this case primarily up and down) blade that is perfect for quick removal of irregular shapes from wood up to a couple of centimeters thick. A cut can be started from a 1cm diameter drilled hole. Any force applied sideways will cause the cut to not be perpendicular to the surface, so a few training cuts are in order if you need to get anything close to precise with it.
Discussions, asking for help
Do you need help with how something works? Did something break while you used it? Do you want to talk to others working in Trärummet?
Come join us on Slack in the channel #trärummet
2021 to-do list for maintenance and upgrades
- Table saw
- Make zero-clearance inserts (create .dxf for the lasercutter)
- Band saw
- Balancing of the wheels to reduce vibrations
- Make a small dust collection system under the table (e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTLZtKWuvGs)
- Drill press
- Fix it with a chain to the ceiling/bold it to the ground
- Add a bolt to the top gear cover
- 3D print dust collection segmented hose (or buy one in bauhaus)
- Lathe
- make supports for the new tools on the french cleats
- Install some more lights?
- Jointer
- new motor.